Earth Stain Thinners
500 ml
Sold out for now. No restock date is confirmed.
1 Litre
Sold out for now. No restock date is confirmed.
5 Litre
Sold out for now. No restock date is confirmed.
On new joinery, apply Knotting Solution to all live knots before finishing.
Furniture Cleaner & Reviver pulls out dirt and restores depth. Always test a small area first.
Earth Stain Thinners are used to reduce the viscosity of Earth Stains
Suitable for
Softwood knot sealing, antique stripping and deep surface restoration.
Application and coverage
- Available sizes
- 500 ml · 1 Litre · 5 Litre
Preparation
Finish performance is dictated by preparation. Use Wax & Polish Remover to strip old surfaces. For new joinery, apply Knotting Solution to all live knots, to prevent sap from ruining the topcoat. Ensure all surfaces are dry and dust-free.
Aftercare & maintenance
For existing finishes, use Furniture Cleaner & Reviver to pull out dirt and restore depth. Always test a small area first. For floors, use specialised pH-neutral cleaners, to avoid stripping the protective wax or oil layer.
General guidance. Always check the product label and test on an offcut or an inconspicuous area first - colour and absorption vary with the species, age and preparation of the timber.
The rest of the range
Product data & safety sheets
Frequently asked questions
How do I prepare wood for finishing?
Preparation makes the result. The timber must be clean, dry and free of dust, grease, wax and any loose previous coating.
Sand evenly with the grain, working up through the grits - most timbers finish somewhere between 120 and 150. Do not go finer than 180 before staining: an over-closed surface no longer takes enough colour, and the stain comes out pale and patchy. Dust thoroughly, then test on an offcut or in an inconspicuous place.
What is a wood sealer, and when do I need one?
A sealer is a preparatory coat that seals the timber and creates an even surface for the finish. It improves adhesion, regulates absorption, locks the stain in place and limits tannin or resin bleed.
It is required in particular after a nitrostain, or before a water-based lacquer. Note that oil cannot be applied over a sealer, since it can no longer penetrate the fibres.
Do I need to use knotting?
Yes, on softwoods - pine, spruce, fir. A knotting solution applied before priming or painting seals resin-rich knots and stops sap bleeding through the finish as brown rings. White knotting suits light-coloured paints, patent knotting darker finishes.
Can I finish wood that has already been waxed?
Not directly: wax stops any new finish adhering or penetrating. Strip the wax fully with an appropriate solvent, let it dry, sand lightly and dust off. Test with a drop of water: if it still beads, there is wax left.
How do I look after an oiled floor?
Vacuum or sweep regularly, and mop with a well-wrung cloth and a neutral product - never an aggressive detergent or a steam cleaner, both of which strip the film. A maintenance coat over the traffic areas, roughly once a year, keeps the protection up without going back to bare timber.
How do I revive a dull waxed piece of furniture?
Dust it, then work a maintenance polish or wax in with a soft cloth, in small amounts, following the grain. Leave it a few minutes, then buff. If the wax is dirty rather than dull, a light de-waxing before re-waxing will give far more back.
How often should the finish be renewed?
Entirely down to use. An oiled worktop wants attention every six to twelve months; an oiled floor, an annual maintenance coat over the traffic areas; a waxed piece of furniture, buffing two or three times a year. Varnished and lacquered surfaces last for years, then are redone in full when the time comes.
How should I store my wood care products?
Close them tightly, away from frost, heat and direct sun. Take care with oil-soaked rags: as they dry they can heat up spontaneously and catch fire. Spread them out flat to dry completely in the open air, or soak them in water before disposing of them.
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