Wood Care

Oil penetrates deep into the timber: it nourishes and protects from within, brings out the grain, and can be repaired locally without stripping.

Wax protects at the surface and gives richness, depth and a soft lustre - light protection, to be renewed regularly.

Polishes restore an existing finish, from everyday furniture products through to traditional French polish.

Varnish forms a protective film on the surface with excellent resistance to moisture, stains and everyday wear: the choice for hard-working surfaces.

Both form a protective film, but they behave differently. Varnish builds a thicker, tougher coating that resists moisture and knocks: doors, worktops, heavily used furniture.

Lacquer lays down a thinner, fast-drying film that builds through successive coats into a smooth, refined finish. It excels on wooden floors, but suits doors, furniture and joinery too.

It depends on the look you want and the maintenance you will accept:

• Hard wax oil - penetrates the timber, durable protection, natural low-sheen look, local repairs possible.
• Floor lacquer - a clear water-based film for residential floors; the reinforced version suits commercial settings.
• Traditional wax polish - the finest patina, but regular upkeep and limited water resistance.

Hard wax oil is our first choice: it penetrates the timber and protects against water, stains and daily use while keeping the grain alive. Allow three to four thin coats, after staining if you are staining.

If you prefer a more closed, tougher film, a quick-dry kitchen and bathroom varnish does the job very well. Either way, treat the edges and the underside of the worktop to stop moisture creeping in.

Yes - that is where they come from. Our oils, lacquers and varnishes are formulated for floors, joinery and fitted furniture, including commercial environments in the reinforced versions. Technical sheets are on the Product advice sheets page, and the trade area gives access to trade pricing.

Light fast stains - spirit (alcohol) based, with high-quality light-fast dyes: fast drying, non-grain-raising, excellent colour stability. Compatible with lacquers and hard wax oils, on hardwoods and softwoods alike.

Nitrostains - traditional enhanced-oil stains, favoured by the reproduction furniture trade: rich, characterful colours, but lower lightfastness, so interior use only. A shellac barrier seal is needed before a modern water-based lacquer.

Earth stains - selected solvents, natural earth pigments, dyes and a little oil: exceptional depth, light-fast and non-grain-raising. Ideal for hardwood flooring and fine furniture; protect afterwards with hard wax oil or lacquer.

Acrylic water stains - a small amount of acrylic binder improves timber wetting and penetration. Excellent transparency, natural appearance preserved; compatible with most of our lacquers, excluding the floor ranges.

No. A stain colours the timber and shows off the grain, but it offers no protection. It must be covered: wax, oil, varnish, lacquer or polish, depending on how the piece will be used.

Always test on an offcut of the same timber, sanded exactly as your workpiece will be - the final colour depends as much on species and sanding as on the product. Apply generously and quickly, with the grain, then wipe off the excess before it sets. On softwoods and unevenly pored timbers, a stain conditioner prevents blotching.

Preparation makes the result. The timber must be clean, dry and free of dust, grease, wax and any loose previous coating.

Sand evenly with the grain, working up through the grits - most timbers finish somewhere between 120 and 150. Do not go finer than 180 before staining: an over-closed surface no longer takes enough colour, and the stain comes out pale and patchy. Dust thoroughly, then test on an offcut or in an inconspicuous place.

A sealer is a preparatory coat that seals the timber and creates an even surface for the finish. It improves adhesion, regulates absorption, locks the stain in place and limits tannin or resin bleed.

It is required in particular after a nitrostain, or before a water-based lacquer. Note that oil cannot be applied over a sealer, since it can no longer penetrate the fibres.

Yes, on softwoods - pine, spruce, fir. A knotting solution applied before priming or painting seals resin-rich knots and stops sap bleeding through the finish as brown rings. White knotting suits light-coloured paints, patent knotting darker finishes.

Not directly: wax stops any new finish adhering or penetrating. Strip the wax fully with an appropriate solvent, let it dry, sand lightly and dust off. Test with a drop of water: if it still beads, there is wax left.

Vacuum or sweep regularly, and mop with a well-wrung cloth and a neutral product - never an aggressive detergent or a steam cleaner, both of which strip the film. A maintenance coat over the traffic areas, roughly once a year, keeps the protection up without going back to bare timber.

Dust it, then work a maintenance polish or wax in with a soft cloth, in small amounts, following the grain. Leave it a few minutes, then buff. If the wax is dirty rather than dull, a light de-waxing before re-waxing will give far more back.

Entirely down to use. An oiled worktop wants attention every six to twelve months; an oiled floor, an annual maintenance coat over the traffic areas; a waxed piece of furniture, buffing two or three times a year. Varnished and lacquered surfaces last for years, then are redone in full when the time comes.

Close them tightly, away from frost, heat and direct sun. Take care with oil-soaked rags: as they dry they can heat up spontaneously and catch fire. Spread them out flat to dry completely in the open air, or soak them in water before disposing of them.