Hard Wax Oil Wenge
1 Litre
Sold out for now. No restock date is confirmed.
2.5 Litre
Sold out for now. No restock date is confirmed.
Two coats give good protection for domestic and commercial use; each additional coat increases durability further.
Allow 24 hours between coats. Full chemical cure is reached after 7-10 days.
Avoid heavy traffic for the first 24 hours after application.
Hard Wax Oil is an oil suitable for all solid wood floorings, block, strip and plank applications. Created by the Mylands Technical team, this is a blend of traditional and modern techniques of timber ageing and wood character enhancement. The concept originates from Mylands’ vast knowledge of antique restoration, flooring finishes and decorative paints for interiors, film, television and theatre. **First image on hardwood (oak), second image on softwood (pine).
Suitable for
Cabinets, doors, floors, furniture, joinery, stairs, tables, worktops and wood panelling, as well as outdoor wooden furniture, sheds and barns.
Application and coverage
- Available sizes
- 1 Litre · 2.5 Litre
Preparation
Successful hardwax oiling relies on the wood's ability to absorb the finish evenly. Surfaces must be sanded sequentially, typically ending with 120-150 grit for floors and up to 180 grit for furniture. Avoid higher grits, which can "burnish" the wood and block oil penetration.
Ensure all traces of old waxes, oils or lacquers are fully removed. Final cleaning should be done with a vacuum followed by a tack cloth, to ensure a 100% dust-free environment.
Application
First coat
Stir thoroughly before use. Apply thinly and evenly along the grain using a high-quality floor brush, short-hair roller or lint-free cloth. Ensure the oil is worked well into the fibres. For large areas, work in manageable sections to maintain a wet edge. Remove any visible excess or pooling immediately, to avoid sticky patches.
Second coat
Allow 24 hours before a second coat. A light "denib" with a fine pad (240+ grit) may be used if the grain has slightly raised. Apply the second coat more sparingly than the first. Two coats typically provide good protection for domestic and commercial use, but additional coats will increase durability.
Aftercare & maintenance
Avoid heavy traffic for the first 24 hours. The finish reaches full chemical cure after 7-10 days.
For routine cleaning, use Mylands Wood Floor Cleaner or a damp cloth. To refresh a dull surface, apply a thin coat of Mylands Maintenance Oil. Scratches can be spot-repaired by lightly sanding the affected area and dabbing on fresh Hardwax Oil.
General guidance. Always check the product label and test on an offcut or an inconspicuous area first - colour and absorption vary with the species, age and preparation of the timber.
Product data & safety sheets
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between wax, polish, oil and varnish?
Oil penetrates deep into the timber: it nourishes and protects from within, brings out the grain, and can be repaired locally without stripping.
Wax protects at the surface and gives richness, depth and a soft lustre - light protection, to be renewed regularly.
Polishes restore an existing finish, from everyday furniture products through to traditional French polish.
Varnish forms a protective film on the surface with excellent resistance to moisture, stains and everyday wear: the choice for hard-working surfaces.
What is the difference between varnish and lacquer?
Both form a protective film, but they behave differently. Varnish builds a thicker, tougher coating that resists moisture and knocks: doors, worktops, heavily used furniture.
Lacquer lays down a thinner, fast-drying film that builds through successive coats into a smooth, refined finish. It excels on wooden floors, but suits doors, furniture and joinery too.
What finish should I use on my floor?
It depends on the look you want and the maintenance you will accept:
- Hard wax oil - penetrates the timber, durable protection, natural low-sheen look, local repairs possible.
- Floor lacquer - a clear water-based film for residential floors; the reinforced version suits commercial settings.
- Traditional wax polish - the finest patina, but regular upkeep and limited water resistance.
What finish should I use on my kitchen worktop?
Hard wax oil is our first choice: it penetrates the timber and protects against water, stains and daily use while keeping the grain alive. Allow three to four thin coats, after staining if you are staining.
If you prefer a more closed, tougher film, a quick-dry kitchen and bathroom varnish does the job very well. Either way, treat the edges and the underside of the worktop to stop moisture creeping in.
Are your wood finishes suitable for professional work?
Yes - that is where they come from. Our oils, lacquers and varnishes are formulated for floors, joinery and fitted furniture, including commercial environments in the reinforced versions. Technical sheets are on the Product advice sheets page, and the trade area gives access to trade pricing.
How do I look after an oiled floor?
Vacuum or sweep regularly, and mop with a well-wrung cloth and a neutral product - never an aggressive detergent or a steam cleaner, both of which strip the film. A maintenance coat over the traffic areas, roughly once a year, keeps the protection up without going back to bare timber.
How do I revive a dull waxed piece of furniture?
Dust it, then work a maintenance polish or wax in with a soft cloth, in small amounts, following the grain. Leave it a few minutes, then buff. If the wax is dirty rather than dull, a light de-waxing before re-waxing will give far more back.
How often should the finish be renewed?
Entirely down to use. An oiled worktop wants attention every six to twelve months; an oiled floor, an annual maintenance coat over the traffic areas; a waxed piece of furniture, buffing two or three times a year. Varnished and lacquered surfaces last for years, then are redone in full when the time comes.
How should I store my wood care products?
Close them tightly, away from frost, heat and direct sun. Take care with oil-soaked rags: as they dry they can heat up spontaneously and catch fire. Spread them out flat to dry completely in the open air, or soak them in water before disposing of them.
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