Mylac Satin

Mylac Satin

1 Litre €51.05 Currently unavailable.
5 Litre €216.94 Currently unavailable.

1 Litre

Sold out for now. No restock date is confirmed.

5 Litre

Sold out for now. No restock date is confirmed.

Allow 24 hours for light use and 7 days for full hardness.

Superior chemical resistance

3-4 hours between coats, long enough for the previous one to be touch dry.

Non-yellowing, high clarity
Dead matt to high gloss sheens

Mylac is a fast drying single-pack water-based lacquer which is based on a 100% polyurethane dispersion to give hard wear and resistance to liquid spillages. Mylac is designed to meet BS7044 (Part 4) 1990 for slip resistance. Mylac is designed for application to internal hardwood or softwood floors in domestic and a wide range of commercial areas – e.g. shops, offices, restaurants, public buildings and gymnasium/sports floors (Matt is not suitable).

Suitable for

Kitchen cabinets, desks, commercial joinery, bar tops and high-impact furniture. Interior wood applications.

Combine with these for the perfect long lasting finish

Preparation

Cellulose Sanding Sealer

Cellulose Sanding Sealer

Cellulose Sanding Sealer is mostly used on wood turning, this material dries fast and creates a smooth surface, preparing the wood to be lacquered.

More details From €13.80

Application and coverage

Available sizes
1 Litre · 5 Litre
1

Preparation

Ensure the substrate is perfectly smooth. On open-grained woods such as oak and walnut, and if you are wood turning, use Mylands Cellulose Sanding Sealer first to fill the pores.

Sand the sealer with up to 220-grit preparation paper until the surface feels glass-smooth. Ensure the environment is cool and dry, to prevent "blooming" — a milky clouding of the finish.

2

Application

Professional Mylac lacquers are optimised for spray application. Apply 2-3 uniform coats, allowing 3-4 hours between each application so that the previous coat is touch dry.

For hand-application of varnishes, use a high-quality synthetic brush and do not over-brush. Always denib between coats with up to 220-grit stearated paper, to remove dust nibs.

3

Aftercare & maintenance

Allow 24 hours for light use and 7 days for full hardness. Clean using a soft cloth dampened with a very mild soap solution. Avoid aerosol furniture polishes containing silicone.

For high-traffic surfaces, use Mylands Extra coatings for maximum durability.

You may also need Brushes, trays, rollers and rags.

General guidance. Always check the product label and test on an offcut or an inconspicuous area first - colour and absorption vary with the species, age and preparation of the timber.


Product data & safety sheets

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between wax, polish, oil and varnish?

Oil penetrates deep into the timber: it nourishes and protects from within, brings out the grain, and can be repaired locally without stripping.

Wax protects at the surface and gives richness, depth and a soft lustre - light protection, to be renewed regularly.

Polishes restore an existing finish, from everyday furniture products through to traditional French polish.

Varnish forms a protective film on the surface with excellent resistance to moisture, stains and everyday wear: the choice for hard-working surfaces.

What is the difference between varnish and lacquer?

Both form a protective film, but they behave differently. Varnish builds a thicker, tougher coating that resists moisture and knocks: doors, worktops, heavily used furniture.

Lacquer lays down a thinner, fast-drying film that builds through successive coats into a smooth, refined finish. It excels on wooden floors, but suits doors, furniture and joinery too.

What finish should I use on my floor?

It depends on the look you want and the maintenance you will accept:

  • Hard wax oil - penetrates the timber, durable protection, natural low-sheen look, local repairs possible.
  • Floor lacquer - a clear water-based film for residential floors; the reinforced version suits commercial settings.
  • Traditional wax polish - the finest patina, but regular upkeep and limited water resistance.
What finish should I use on my kitchen worktop?

Hard wax oil is our first choice: it penetrates the timber and protects against water, stains and daily use while keeping the grain alive. Allow three to four thin coats, after staining if you are staining.

If you prefer a more closed, tougher film, a quick-dry kitchen and bathroom varnish does the job very well. Either way, treat the edges and the underside of the worktop to stop moisture creeping in.

Are your wood finishes suitable for professional work?

Yes - that is where they come from. Our oils, lacquers and varnishes are formulated for floors, joinery and fitted furniture, including commercial environments in the reinforced versions. Technical sheets are on the Product advice sheets page, and the trade area gives access to trade pricing.

How do I look after an oiled floor?

Vacuum or sweep regularly, and mop with a well-wrung cloth and a neutral product - never an aggressive detergent or a steam cleaner, both of which strip the film. A maintenance coat over the traffic areas, roughly once a year, keeps the protection up without going back to bare timber.

How do I revive a dull waxed piece of furniture?

Dust it, then work a maintenance polish or wax in with a soft cloth, in small amounts, following the grain. Leave it a few minutes, then buff. If the wax is dirty rather than dull, a light de-waxing before re-waxing will give far more back.

How often should the finish be renewed?

Entirely down to use. An oiled worktop wants attention every six to twelve months; an oiled floor, an annual maintenance coat over the traffic areas; a waxed piece of furniture, buffing two or three times a year. Varnished and lacquered surfaces last for years, then are redone in full when the time comes.

How should I store my wood care products?

Close them tightly, away from frost, heat and direct sun. Take care with oil-soaked rags: as they dry they can heat up spontaneously and catch fire. Spread them out flat to dry completely in the open air, or soak them in water before disposing of them.


140 years of craft in every pot of Mylands

140 years of craft in every pot of Mylands
It takes dedication, passion and generations of craft - but above all, it takes the finest natural ingredients…
That's how we create a paint that elevates any surface. Formulated with crushed Carrara marble and our water-based acrylic powder, our paints offer exceptional beauty with an eco-friendly, fully non-toxic finish.

The Finest Ingredients

Formulated with the highest pigment concentration on the market and the finest natural ingredients. Discover an impeccable finish and exceptional durability.

Deeper Colours

Our signature colours are packed with rich pigment for ever more captivating shades. Watch your space transform from a bright, airy feel by day to a warm, intimate atmosphere by night.

Responsible Sourcing

We work exclusively with ethical suppliers. Every ingredient and pigment in our paint comes from responsible sources, free from exploitation.

Proudly Made in London

Our colours have been hand-made in England since 1884. Over 140 years of expertise go into every pot, offering a level of heritage and care that's truly unmatched.

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