Nitrostain Red Mahogany
250 ml
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500 ml
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1 Litre
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5 Litre
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The alcohol base dries extremely rapidly and does not swell the fibres of the timber.
A second coat can be applied as soon as the first is dry, for a deeper look.
Dilute with Mylands Light Fast Thinners to achieve a lighter shade.
Mylands Nitrostains have been formulated on a selected solvent blend to provide excellent application properties. Nitrostains are non grain raising. Nitrostains are not a finish in their own right and will need overcoating to give protection: For Furniture use: Waterbased, Cellulose, Pre- catalysed, Acid Catalysed, products or Polyurethane (single & two pack) lacquers; Shellac Waxes. **First image on hardwood (oak), second image on softwood (pine).
Suitable for
Bare wood furniture, floors, doors, skirting, panelling and professional restoration. Interior use, prior to an application of varnish, shellac polish, Mylac floor varnish or hard wax oil.
Combine with these for the perfect long lasting finish
Preparation
Cellulose Thinners
A premium quality grade formulated for use with Cellulose Sanding Sealer, Melamine Lacquer and Spirit Stain. It can also be used to clean brushes after using these produc...
After application
Mylac Extra Matt - 4.5 Litre & Hardener - 500ml
Mylac Extra is a low odour, two-pack water-based polyurethane lacquer designed to give excellent wear and resistance to liquid spillages. Mylac Extra is designed to meet...
Application and coverage
- Available sizes
- 250 ml · 500 ml · 1 Litre · 5 Litre
- Recommended finish
- Mylac Extra Matt - 4.5 Litre & Hardener - 500ml
Preparation
Wood stains act as a magnifying glass for preparation errors: any sanding swirls or scratches will be highlighted the moment the dye hits the wood. Sand meticulously through the grits (80-120-150-180).
For softwoods prone to "blotching" — pine floorboards in particular — we recommend the application of water stains first. Ensure the wood is chemically clean and free of grease, using Mylands Cellulose Thinners or Pure Turpentine.
Application
Light Fast Stains are alcohol-based and dry extremely rapidly. Apply using a clean, lint-free cloth or sponge for small items, or a spray gun for large panels. Work in fast, continuous motions along the grain.
To achieve a lighter shade, dilute with Mylands Light Fast Thinners. To achieve a deeper look, a second coat can be applied once dry (10-15 minutes). Always overlap strokes slightly, to avoid "banding".
Aftercare & maintenance
Stains provide colour only and have no protective properties. They must be sealed with a clear topcoat — a lacquer, varnish or wax.
Avoid using water-based topcoats directly over light fast stains unless a barrier seal, such as shellac, is applied first. Once sealed, follow the maintenance advice for the chosen topcoat.
You may also need Finish the job with a lacquer or a shellac polish.
General guidance. Always check the product label and test on an offcut or an inconspicuous area first - colour and absorption vary with the species, age and preparation of the timber.
The rest of the range
Product data & safety sheets
Frequently asked questions
What are the differences between your stain families?
Light fast stains - spirit (alcohol) based, with high-quality light-fast dyes: fast drying, non-grain-raising, excellent colour stability. Compatible with lacquers and hard wax oils, on hardwoods and softwoods alike.
Nitrostains - traditional enhanced-oil stains, favoured by the reproduction furniture trade: rich, characterful colours, but lower lightfastness, so interior use only. A shellac barrier seal is needed before a modern water-based lacquer.
Earth stains - selected solvents, natural earth pigments, dyes and a little oil: exceptional depth, light-fast and non-grain-raising. Ideal for hardwood flooring and fine furniture; protect afterwards with hard wax oil or lacquer.
Acrylic water stains - a small amount of acrylic binder improves timber wetting and penetration. Excellent transparency, natural appearance preserved; compatible with most of our lacquers, excluding the floor ranges.
Can I use a stain on its own?
No. A stain colours the timber and shows off the grain, but it offers no protection. It must be covered: wax, oil, varnish, lacquer or polish, depending on how the piece will be used.
How do I get an even stain?
Always test on an offcut of the same timber, sanded exactly as your workpiece will be - the final colour depends as much on species and sanding as on the product. Apply generously and quickly, with the grain, then wipe off the excess before it sets. On softwoods and unevenly pored timbers, a stain conditioner prevents blotching.
How do I look after an oiled floor?
Vacuum or sweep regularly, and mop with a well-wrung cloth and a neutral product - never an aggressive detergent or a steam cleaner, both of which strip the film. A maintenance coat over the traffic areas, roughly once a year, keeps the protection up without going back to bare timber.
How do I revive a dull waxed piece of furniture?
Dust it, then work a maintenance polish or wax in with a soft cloth, in small amounts, following the grain. Leave it a few minutes, then buff. If the wax is dirty rather than dull, a light de-waxing before re-waxing will give far more back.
How often should the finish be renewed?
Entirely down to use. An oiled worktop wants attention every six to twelve months; an oiled floor, an annual maintenance coat over the traffic areas; a waxed piece of furniture, buffing two or three times a year. Varnished and lacquered surfaces last for years, then are redone in full when the time comes.
How should I store my wood care products?
Close them tightly, away from frost, heat and direct sun. Take care with oil-soaked rags: as they dry they can heat up spontaneously and catch fire. Spread them out flat to dry completely in the open air, or soak them in water before disposing of them.
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