Superfine White Polish
250 ml
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500 ml
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1 Litre
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5 Litre
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Achieved by spiriting off, which removes the lubricant and brings up a mirror gloss.
Apply 2-5 coats as required.
New layers melt into the old ones, so a scratch repairs with no visible join.
This product is suitable for light coloured timbers, such as oak, beech, maple, ash and sycamore and gives a beautiful high gloss finish. It gives a softer finish than other polishes, so should not be used on table tops. White polish has a hazy white appearance in the liquid form but dries to a clear film.
Suitable for
Antique restoration, fine instruments, traditional panelling and clocks.
Application and coverage
- Available sizes
- 250 ml · 500 ml · 1 Litre · 5 Litre
Preparation
French polishing requires the highest level of surface prep. Wood must be sanded to at least 180 grit. Ensure the work area is warm and bone-dry: humidity will cause the shellac to "cloud".
Stain the wood first if a wood shade colour is required, using a Mylands Earth Stain, Nitrostain, wood dye or water stain.
Application
The traditional method
Apply using a "rubber" — cotton wool inside lint-free cotton. 1. Fadding: apply layers in the direction of the grain to seal. 2. Bodying: apply in circular motions to build the film, using a drop of raw linseed oil as a lubricant. 3. Spiriting off: use a rubber dampened only with methylated spirits, to remove the lubricant and achieve a mirror gloss.
The alternative
Use the 2000 Pale Shellac Sealer with a zorino mop, a very fine brush or a paint brush. Apply 2-5 coats as required.
If you are looking for a traditional antique finish, scuff the surface with fine wire wool two days after applying the final coat.
Aftercare & maintenance
Shellac is a delicate finish, susceptible to heat and alcohol damage. Always use coasters. Dust only with a soft, dry microfibre cloth. Scratches can be seamlessly repaired, as new layers melt into the old ones.
You may also need Raw linseed oil and a dry microfibre cloth.
General guidance. Always check the product label and test on an offcut or an inconspicuous area first - colour and absorption vary with the species, age and preparation of the timber.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between wax, polish, oil and varnish?
Oil penetrates deep into the timber: it nourishes and protects from within, brings out the grain, and can be repaired locally without stripping.
Wax protects at the surface and gives richness, depth and a soft lustre - light protection, to be renewed regularly.
Polishes restore an existing finish, from everyday furniture products through to traditional French polish.
Varnish forms a protective film on the surface with excellent resistance to moisture, stains and everyday wear: the choice for hard-working surfaces.
What is the difference between varnish and lacquer?
Both form a protective film, but they behave differently. Varnish builds a thicker, tougher coating that resists moisture and knocks: doors, worktops, heavily used furniture.
Lacquer lays down a thinner, fast-drying film that builds through successive coats into a smooth, refined finish. It excels on wooden floors, but suits doors, furniture and joinery too.
What finish should I use on my floor?
It depends on the look you want and the maintenance you will accept:
- Hard wax oil - penetrates the timber, durable protection, natural low-sheen look, local repairs possible.
- Floor lacquer - a clear water-based film for residential floors; the reinforced version suits commercial settings.
- Traditional wax polish - the finest patina, but regular upkeep and limited water resistance.
What finish should I use on my kitchen worktop?
Hard wax oil is our first choice: it penetrates the timber and protects against water, stains and daily use while keeping the grain alive. Allow three to four thin coats, after staining if you are staining.
If you prefer a more closed, tougher film, a quick-dry kitchen and bathroom varnish does the job very well. Either way, treat the edges and the underside of the worktop to stop moisture creeping in.
Are your wood finishes suitable for professional work?
Yes - that is where they come from. Our oils, lacquers and varnishes are formulated for floors, joinery and fitted furniture, including commercial environments in the reinforced versions. Technical sheets are on the Product advice sheets page, and the trade area gives access to trade pricing.
How do I look after an oiled floor?
Vacuum or sweep regularly, and mop with a well-wrung cloth and a neutral product - never an aggressive detergent or a steam cleaner, both of which strip the film. A maintenance coat over the traffic areas, roughly once a year, keeps the protection up without going back to bare timber.
How do I revive a dull waxed piece of furniture?
Dust it, then work a maintenance polish or wax in with a soft cloth, in small amounts, following the grain. Leave it a few minutes, then buff. If the wax is dirty rather than dull, a light de-waxing before re-waxing will give far more back.
How often should the finish be renewed?
Entirely down to use. An oiled worktop wants attention every six to twelve months; an oiled floor, an annual maintenance coat over the traffic areas; a waxed piece of furniture, buffing two or three times a year. Varnished and lacquered surfaces last for years, then are redone in full when the time comes.
How should I store my wood care products?
Close them tightly, away from frost, heat and direct sun. Take care with oil-soaked rags: as they dry they can heat up spontaneously and catch fire. Spread them out flat to dry completely in the open air, or soak them in water before disposing of them.
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