Help with woodcare Understanding finishes

Choosing a wood stain

A stain gives wood a colour and nothing else: it goes on bare, faultlessly sanded wood, and is always overcoated with a finish — lacquer, shellac or wax on furniture, Mylac or Hard Wax Oil Natural on a floor. Four ranges: Light Fast Stain, spirit-based, dries in 10 to 15 minutes, does not raise the grain and is light-fast; Water Stain, water-based, transparent, the best on softwoods but it raises the grain slightly; Nitrostain, solvent-based, non-grain-raising, for furniture; Earth Stain, the designers' palette, thinned with Earth Stain Thinners. All intermix, and all are tried on an offcut first.

Page updated September 2026 · by the Mylands France woodcare specialists

The principle

Colour, never protection

A wood stain is a dye in solution — spirit, water or solvent — that penetrates the fibres and colours them without covering them. The grain stays visible, often sharpened. But it has no protective properties at all: the first hand soils it, the first drop marks it. A stain is always followed by a clear finish, and that finish decides how it wears.

The range has four. Light Fast Stain, spirit-based micro-dyes: dries in 10 to 15 minutes, no grain raising, exceptional UV resistance, sixteen colours from White to Black. Water Stain, water-based: transparency, all timbers but softwoods above all, including Antique Pine No. 3. Nitrostain, solvent-based: non-grain-raising, the furniture tool. Earth Stain, the designers' palette — Chalk, Clay, Natural Linen, Silt, Washed Umber — thinned with Earth Stain Thinners.

All intermix within their range, for the exact shade. The collection: stains, by oak, pine, mahogany and earth.

Six looks

Six stains on six woods

01

1. Light Oak on oak: barely more than nature

A bare oak sideboard stained with Light Fast Stain Light Oak: the stain evens boards of different colours and gives new oak the golden blond of oak that has lived. By cloth, in fast strokes along the grain, dry in 10 to 15 minutes; then a shellac or a wax on top.

02

2. Antique Pine on pine boards: the floor made one

An old pine floor, new and old boards mixed, stained with Water Stain Antique Pine No. 3: the water stain, the best suited to softwoods, evens the boards and avoids the blotching pine makes under a spirit stain. Wood pre-wetted then de-nibbed first, so the raised grain holds no surprise; Hard Wax Oil Natural on top.

03

3. Walnut on beech: walnut without the walnut

A beech table, a pale, close-grained wood, stained with Light Fast Stain Walnut: the beech takes an even walnut brown, without blotching, because its tight grain drinks uniformly. Two coats for depth, the second as soon as the first is dry; then 2000 Pale Shellac Sealer Basecoat or a French polish.

04

4. Red Mahogany on a chest: the red of antique furniture

A stripped mahogany chest of drawers, revived with Nitrostain Red Mahogany: the solvent stain, non-grain-raising, gives the wood back the deep red that stripping washed out. By cloth, overlapping each stroke slightly; French Polish on top, with a rubber, for the warm gloss modern lacquers cannot reproduce.

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5. Earth Stain Clay on an oak floor: the designers' tone

An oak floor stained with Earth Stain Clay before Mylac Matt: a clay tone, muted and contemporary, drawn from the palette interior designers choose. Thinned with Earth Stain Thinners for the shade you want, laid by cloth or sponge, then sealed with Mylac, Mylac Extra or Hard Wax Oil Natural.

06

6. Black on ash: ebony, with the grain

An ash console stained with Light Fast Stain Black: ash, with its large open pores, drinks the black harder in its veins and keeps the drawing of the wood under an ebony colour. Two spirit coats, quick to dry, then Wax Clear buffed up — or a shellac barrier before any water-based finish.

Compare

Four ranges of stain

RangeBase and dryingGrainBest on, and over it
Light Fast Stain, 250 ml Spirit, micro-dyes; dries in 10 to 15 minutes; UV resistant; thinned with Light Fast thinners Non-grain-raising (NGR) Hardwoods, furniture, floors; lacquer, shellac, wax — a shellac barrier before a water-based finish
Water Stain, 250 ml Water, light-fast dyes; good transparency; slower to dry Raises the grain slightly: pre-wet, let dry, de-nib first Softwoods above all, pine and floorboards; all timbers; every finish
Nitrostain, 250 ml A solvent blend chosen for its application; quick to dry Non-grain-raising Furniture; lacquers, shellac, waxes
Earth Stain, 250 ml Thinned with Earth Stain Thinners; the designers' palette On wood sanded 80-120-150-180 Floors: Mylac, Mylac Extra, Hard Wax Oil Natural; furniture: lacquers, shellac, waxes

The full method, from sanding to finish: How to stain wooden furniture.

Before choosing

The test, the finish, and the wood that blotches

No stain is chosen from the bottle. The same colour is pale on oak, strong on pine, even on beech; and the finish changes everything: a shellac warms and darkens, a wax softens, a water-based lacquer keeps the shade cool. Stain an offcut of the same wood, sanded through the same grits, lay the intended finish, and judge it in the light of the room.

The wood matters as much as the stain. Close-grained hardwoods — beech, maple — drink evenly; oak and ash, open-pored, hold the colour in their veins. Softwoods blotch: pine drinks in patches and marks under a spirit stain. The answer is a water stain first — Water Stain — which evens it out. The detail, wood by wood, in Understanding wood before finishing and Finishing pine and softwoods.

Finally, preparation: a stain magnifies every scratch like a lens. Grits 80-120-150-180 in order, then a degrease with Cellulose Thinners or pure turpentine.

To avoid

What ruins a stain

  • Staining with no finish on top. The colour does not last and the wood is not protected. Lacquer, shellac or wax on furniture; Mylac or Hard Wax Oil Natural on a floor.
  • A water-based finish straight onto a Light Fast Stain. The spirit stain lifts into the film. A shellac barrier coat first.
  • A spirit stain on bare pine. It blotches. Water Stain first, to even it.
  • Circular sanding or a skipped grit. Every scratch shows darker the moment the stain touches the wood. 80-120-150-180, along the grain.
  • Strokes that do not join. A dark band or a pale line. Fast, continuous strokes, overlapping the previous one slightly.

Frequently asked

Your questions, our answers

Should oak be stained?

Rarely to change it, often to even it. Light Fast Stain Light Oak matches boards of different shades; Earth Stain Chalk or Clay gives it a contemporary tone; Dark Oak deepens it. The six shades of Hard Wax Oil colour and protect in one go. See Finishing oak.

How do I test a stain?

On an offcut of the same wood, sanded through the same grits, with the intended finish on top — it is the finish that sets the final colour. On a piece of furniture, the back or the inside of a drawer. Judge it dry, in the light of the room.

Why is my pine patchy after staining?

Pine drinks in patches: the softer zones absorb more and go darker. That is blotching, and a spirit stain reveals it. On pine — floorboards above all — lay a water stain first, Water Stain, which evens it out.

Can a stain be lightened, or the wood itself?

A stain is lightened by thinning it — Light Fast thinners for the Light Fast Stains, Earth Stain Thinners for the Earth Stains — or by mixing it with a paler stain from the same range. To pale the wood itself, Light Fast Stain White or Water Stain White lay a light veil in the grain, to be overcoated afterwards.

Which finish over a stain?

On a floor: Mylac, Mylac Extra or Hard Wax Oil Natural. On furniture: a lacquer, a shellac — 2000 Pale Shellac Sealer Basecoat then French polish — or a wax. Over a Light Fast Stain, a water-based finish first needs a shellac barrier coat.

“The stain makes the colour; the finish makes the rest. Never confuse the two.”
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