Help with paint Painting outdoors

Creating an open-air kitchen

An outdoor kitchen is composed of three painted surfaces and one you do not paint: the back wall or the masonry base in Masonry Paint, the wooden fronts and shelves in Multi-Surface Satin, the metal frame and legs in Gloss — and a worktop in stone, tiles, polished concrete or stainless steel, never painted. The paint keeps its distance from the fire: nothing painted within 30 cm of the barbecue or pizza oven firebox, where the heat blisters any finish. The rest is a matter of colours — a palette of shade and sun — and of a shelter that keeps the whole thing out of the rain.

Page updated September 2026 · by the Mylands France colour team

Outdoor kitchen under a wooden canopy: stone-white masonry base, wooden cupboard fronts painted satin enamel blue, stone worktop, wooden shelves, lemon tree in a pot, warm light
Enamel Blue No.78 in Multi-Surface Satin on the fronts: the blue of the sea under the canopy

Understanding

What gets painted in an outdoor kitchen, and what does not

An outdoor kitchen brings together everything that tests a paint: rain, sun, grease, hands, the heat of a fire, and sometimes salt. So it is composed by material. Masonry — back wall, rendered blockwork base, built-in bench — takes Masonry Paint, matt and breathable, on a sound render; it is the big surface, the one that sets the overall colour. Wood — cupboard fronts, doors, shelves, canopy — takes Multi-Surface Satin over primer: washable, it stands up to the sponge and grease splashes. Metal — frame, legs, larder, pergola — takes Gloss over primer, after de-rusting: the hardest and most washable.

What does not get painted: the worktop, which gets cut on, stood on, washed down — stone, tiles, polished concrete, stainless steel, oiled solid wood; the floor, flags or exterior tiles; and anything within 30 cm of the firebox of a barbecue, a plancha or a pizza oven — radiant heat blisters any finish there. There, brick, stone or stainless steel. The insides of the cupboards, closed and sheltered, are painted like kitchen units: How to paint kitchen cabinets.

By surface

Every surface of an outdoor kitchen, its finish and its primer

SurfaceFinishPrimerWorth knowing
Back wall, rendered base Masonry Paint Stabilising primer if the surface chalks Two coats; a coping on top of a low wall; not on a lime render
Built-in bench, planter Masonry Paint Same The top, where you sit, takes a wooden or stone slab rather than paint
Cupboard fronts, wooden doors Multi-Surface Satin Multi-Surface Primer on bare wood Tinted undercoat then two coats; three on a face in sun; take off and paint flat
Shelves, wooden boards Multi-Surface Satin Multi-Surface Primer Top and underside; edges twice; under shelter only
Frame, legs, metal larder Multi-Surface Gloss Multi-Surface Primer after de-rusting Two thin coats; every unprimed millimetre will rust
Canopy, wooden pergola Multi-Surface Eggshell Multi-Surface Primer, two coats on end grain See Painting outdoor woodwork
Worktop Not painted — Stone, tiles, polished concrete, stainless steel, oiled solid wood
Around the firebox (30 cm) Not painted — Brick, stone, stainless steel; heat blisters any finish

The quantity: the back wall in Masonry Paint as the data sheet says; a litre of Satin for six cupboard fronts; a litre of Gloss for a 3 m metal frame.

Close-up of a wooden outdoor-kitchen cupboard front, taken off and laid flat, painted satin enamel blue, brass handle removed, flat brush, under a canopy
Fronts off their hinges, flat: tinted undercoat, then two coats of Satin

The method

Composing an outdoor kitchen in six steps

  1. 01

    Decide the shelter and the fire

    A canopy, a covered pergola or a return wall: without shelter, the paint on the timber and shelves needs redoing every spring. Place the fire — barbecue, plancha, oven — and mark out the 30 cm around it in bare materials: brick, stone, stainless steel.

  2. 02

    Choose the palette

    Three colours: the masonry in a light neutral (stone white, sand, warm grey), the fronts in a colour — the house's shutter colour, or a blue, a green, an ochre —, the metal in grey-black or in the fronts' colour. Test on boards, against the wall, at noon and in the evening.

  3. 03

    Paint the masonry

    Wall and base clean, dry, repaired; stabilising primer if the surface chalks; two coats of Masonry Paint by roller, in the shade. A coping on low walls. See Painting an exterior wall.

  4. 04

    Paint the timber, flat

    Fronts and doors off their hinges, hardware removed, laid on trestles under the shelter: washing, 120 grit sanding, Multi-Surface Primer on bare wood, tinted undercoat, two coats of Satin, three on a face in sun. Shelves top and underside, edges twice.

  5. 05

    Paint the metal

    Frame and legs de-rusted with a wire brush, degreased, primed throughout, two thin coats of Gloss by brush. See Best paint for metal surfaces.

  6. 06

    Fit the worktop, and let it cure

    The worktop goes on once the fronts are back on; two to four weeks' curing before the first big table — and a soft sponge, never a harsh degreaser, on the painted fronts.

The colours

Six outdoor kitchen palettes

The outdoor kitchen is the room of sun and shade: its colours are chosen at the hour you live in it — the evening, under the canopy, in warm light. Outdoors, a colour looks lighter: one shade deeper than on the chip.

To avoid

What goes wrong in an outdoor kitchen

  • Painting the worktop. It gets cut on and washed down; no paint holds there. Stone, tiles, stainless steel.
  • Paint against the firebox. Radiant heat blisters everything within 30 cm; brick, stone or stainless steel around the fire.
  • Matt on the fronts. Grease works into it; Satin, washable.
  • No shelter. Uncovered shelves and fronts need redoing every spring; a canopy changes everything.
  • Pure white on the masonry. It dazzles in sun and shows every splash; a stone white, a sand.
  • A harsh degreaser on the fronts. It dulls the paint; soapy water and a soft sponge.
Outdoor kitchen under a vine: satin olive-green cupboard fronts, warm sand rendered wall, bare brick bread oven, stone worktop, tomatoes and herbs on a shelf
Stockwell Green No.203 on the fronts, Walbrook No.142 on the wall, bare brick around the oven

Frequently asked questions

Your questions, our answers

Can I paint around a barbecue or a pizza oven?

Not within 30 cm of the firebox: radiant heat blisters and browns any finish, and heated paint gives off fumes. Brick, stone or stainless steel around the fire; the paint picks up beyond it, on the wall and the cupboards.

Which finish for cupboard fronts outdoors?

Multi-Surface Satin over Multi-Surface Primer: washable, it stands up to the sponge and grease, and holds outdoors under shelter. Eggshell for a flatter look if the kitchen is well covered; Gloss on the metal.

Can a wooden worktop be painted?

No: it gets cut on, stood on, washed down. Solid wood is oiled; a laminate or tiled top is kept as it is. The paint goes on the fronts and shelves, not on the top.

How do I look after painted fronts?

A soft sponge and soapy water after each meal, never a harsh degreaser or a scouring pad; a maintenance coat when the satin dulls, every three to five years under shelter. Interior kitchen units follow the same rule: How to paint kitchen cabinets.

And a metal outdoor kitchen?

Frame, fronts and shelves in steel or aluminium: degrease, de-rust, Multi-Surface Primer on every millimetre, two coats of Gloss or Satin. Stainless steel is not painted and does not need to be.

“An outdoor kitchen is painted where you don't cut and where the fire doesn't reach: everything else is colour.”
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